Saturday, August 06, 2011

Reliving history on the Sarawak River cruise


By NYL

Like other parts of Borneo, Kuching's earliest and still significantly important transportation lifeline is the river. The Sarawak River runs through Kuching, gently carving it in half. Kuching's main activity is concentrated at its waterfront.

The river is also the site of the annual Sarawak Regatta, where champion paddlers from all over Borneo come together to compete in traditional boat races.

On any given day however, dozens of boats can be seen making their way up and down river. Some are passenger express boats. Some are traders from upriver. Some are tiny covered sampan-like boats making their way across the river several times a day. These boats are called 'tambang' and for a fee of 50 sen per person, they ferry market goers, villagers, city folks, school children and of course, travellers across the river.

While in Kuching recently, I took a budget cruise on Lan Berambeh, a boat owned by the Koperasi Berambih Sungai Bedilku Kuching Berhad, to see the historical sites and the scenic beauty of the river. Not having taken a trip of this sort in a while, I was looking forward to the ride, which officially began as we took off from the jetty at the Kuching Waterfront.

"Welcome aboard," said Osman, our friendly boat operator as I stepped into the boat with 10 other passengers.

Dressed casually, the tourists on board seemed to come from all walks of life. Families, couples and friends boarded the boat where the coolness and serenity of the early evening seemed to put everyone in a jovial mood as they took in the sights along the cruise.

From the jetty, the boat sailed past several historical landmarks including the Astana, a majestic building with a romantic history built in 1870 by the second White Rajah, Charles Brooke as a wedding gift to his wife. Today, it is the official residence of the Yang di-Pertua Negeri, the Governor of Sarawak.

Further upriver, Brooke Dockyard (1912), is the first modern ship yard established within Kuching city to offer repair facilities for the White Rajah's boats. Interestingly, it was built in the same year as the Titanic sunk. Today, it is still in operation and carries out repair jobs for government vessels.

Part of the fun on the one-and a half- hour boat ride came from watching people engaged in various recreational activities.

Against the bright rays of the setting sun, we sat back, relaxed and observed people catching fish and big boats creating great waves as they sailed past us.

Listening to the constant drone of water and the sound of the boat's engine, I dozed off for a good 20 minutes, just to wake up and see a jet skier showing off his best moves and paddlers practising for the Sarawak Regatta.

After making a turnaround at the Satok Suspension Bridge, we headed back to our starting point but not before passing through various attractions down river: the Old Court House (1874), Square Tower (1879), Main Bazaar (1864), Chinese Museum (1912), Fort Margherita (1879) and the Malay villages of Kampung Boyan and Kampung Surabaya (1860)

According to Osman, Lan Berambeh started its operations in March and is slowly gaining in popularity among visitors especially those with families. Its winning features are its affordability and flexibility.

Prices range from as low as RM15 for the cruise package to RM35 for the leisure package, which includes servings of local cakes and delicacies.

Courtesy of Borneo Bulletin Weekend
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